Disoriented David : Central Vietnam and beyond

As so often seems to be the case, I find myself updating this blog while traveling between cities - on a train for a change - able to utilise a distraction-free window to gather my thoughts. I'm traveling between Ninh Binh and Hanoi, which, besides for being Vietnam's capital and second largest city, is also a jumping-off point for the country's northern provinces and the legendary Halong Bay - plenty to fill the ten days until my visa expires.

Since I last posted, I've graced Hoi An, Phong Nha----, Hue and Ninh Binh with my presence and I will briefly describe my experiences each, showing my calculations.

Hoi An was... nice. I liked it just fine, but it had been hyped up to such gargantuan proportions that it was almost inevitable that it would underwhelm. The old city, which boasts endless colonial and pre-colonial architecture, really is very attractive, particularly at night, but is just a tad too disneyfied for my tastes. The beach near the city is quite presentable too, but the weather on the day I visited was not conducive to sunbathing or swimming. The town specialises in cheap tailoring but I ultimately opted not to indulge in any bespoke clothes because I have renounced consumerism/look great in everything, even regular old off-the-shelf clothes/am lazy.

After Hoi An came Hue, the former imperial capital of Vietnam. One of the main reasons to visit Hue is actually for the journey from Hoi An which is via the Hai Van pass. Unfortunately the day I made the journey was exceptionally stormy and at the summit I was treated to sweeping views of my forearms and the immediately adjacent 1-2 metres, and little else. We did stop at a creepy abandoned waterpark in the outskirts of Hue; it was particularly atmospheric in the mist and rain. Hue itself was quite pleasant and, though close in distance to Hoi An, had a very different feel. The imperial palace complex, much of which was destroyed during the war, is quite impressive, if unfortunately lacking in context and information. The town also hosts a charming pagoda with an equally charming 0 VND (US$0.00 Nov 16) entry fee. Walking between the two takes one through the streets of a typical Vietnamese city, with citizens unconnected to the tourist industry unhurriedly going about their ordinary business.

A short four hour minibus from Hue is Phong Nha-Kẻ Bàng National Park - a national park containing some of the largest caves in the world. In contrast with places such as Dalat, Hoi An and Halong Bay, I hadn't heard of the region before I arrived in Vietnam and began to hear glowing reports from backpackers moving in the opposite direction. To reach the caves, one can rent a scooter and circumnavigate the ring of roads around the park, through lush, jagged, mountains, small villages and rivers, woven together into a tapestry of scenery unlike any I have ever seen. On my first day I visited the dark cave (does exactly what it says on the tin), the entrance to which has Vietnam's longest zip line and which contains thick mud pools where one can wade, eerily suspended in the viscous goop. The main destination for the following day was the Paradise Cave, discovered only in 2005, the longest dry cave in Asia. Besides for being immensely impressive in its scale, the cave contains numerous natural rock formations that look like intentionally created works of art. I really fell in love with Phong Nha (in a platonic way); the two days I spent there were a highlight of my time in Vietnam so far, and indeed of my entire trip.

Ninh Binh (putting the 'beyond' in the title of this post), a night bus away from Phong Nha, is only a couple of hours south of Hanoi. I had heard mixed things about Ninh Binh, but the day and a half I spent was fantastic. The town itself doesn't have much to see, and is rather a base for exploring the surrounding countryside, home to a spectacular lookout, the largest pagoda in southeast Asia, and a boat ride through terrain described as Halong Bay on land. It's been quite interesting to see how people's opinions of destinations can vary so greatly, and I suppose the takeaway is that the only way to develop an informed impression of a place is to see it for oneself.

As I noted, the plan is to spend the coming week and a half in the North before moving on to another country (Laos?). I shall endeavour to update the blog along the way.

It's hard to believe it's been over four months since I left home and the heat of a Tel Aviv midsummer - over here it's beginning to feel a lot like Hannukah. I'm still enjoying myself but I'm definitely looking forward to catching up with everyone when I get back.

Love David